If you use the "Bespoke" section when it comes to measuring overcoats (meaning you don't use try-ons), here is how you should proceed:
- Select the cut your customer desires. Basically, the cut accounts for the allowance given to the chest, the waist and the seat of the overcoat.
- In order to respect your customers' proportions, we suggest that you always keep in mind the overall look of the garments you create when inputting measurements.
- Generally speaking, a client's finished overcoat measurements should be larger than his jacket's; especially if the overcoat is to be worn on top of a jacket.
Chest:
- Put the measuring tape on the most prominent part of the chest.
- Make sure the tape is leveled.
- The tape should be held firmly, without being tightened.
- Ask the client to take a deep breath and add about 1" to the measurement you see when the chest is at full stretch.
- The allowance will be added automatically depending on the cut you select.
Waist:
- Put the measuring tape on the narrowest part of the waist. Usually, it is around the belly button.
- Make sure the tape is leveled.
- Input the measurement you read.
- The allowance will be added automatically depending on the cut you select.
- Try to avoid big drops between the finished chest and waist of the overcoat. Aim for that difference to be around 3" - 4".
Seat:
- Put the measuring tape on the most prominent part of the seat.
- Make sure the tape is leveled.
- Input the measurement you read.
- The allowance will be added automatically depending on the cut you select.
Shoulder:
- Measure the shoulders from point to point and add at least 0.5" to the measurement you would use for a jacket.
Sleeves:
- Put the measuring tape on the shoulder point (sleeves are NOT measured from the center of the yoke).
- Ask your client to keep his arms along his body.
- Measure from the shoulder point to 0,5" above the first knuckle.
Finished biceps:
- Put the measuring tape on the fullest part of the bicep.
- Depending on the customer's shape, add from 3" to 4" of allowance (or more if needed).
Back length:
- Put the measuring tape on the collar seam (on the back, where the collar attaches to the shoulders).
- Measure to where the customer wants his overcoat to fall.
- Most overcoats fall right above the knee; but it could be as short as mid-thigh, or as long as to end around the calf.
NB: Please note that all the measurement sections that are grey (not black) are NOT mandatory.