If you use the "Bespoke" section when it comes to measuring waistcoats (meaning you don't use try-ons), here is how you should proceed:
- Select the "Always" cut. Basically, this cut accounts for the allowance given to the chest, the waist and the seat of the waistcoat.
- In order to respect your customers' proportions, we suggest that you always keep in mind the overall look of the garments you create when inputting measurements.
Chest:
- Put the measuring tape on the most prominent part of the chest.
- Make sure the tape is leveled.
- The tape should be held firmly, without being tightened.
- Ask the client to take a deep breath and input the measurement you see when the chest is at full stretch.
- A 1" allowance will be added automatically if you select the "Always" cut.
- NB: for many clients, even a 1-inch allowance proves to be too large around the chest, and a finished measurement that is equal to the body measurement is preferable.
Waist:
- Put the measuring tape on the narrowest part of the waist. Usually, it is around the belly button.
- Make sure the tape is leveled.
- Input the measurement you read.
- A 2" allowance will be added automatically if you select the "Always" cut.
- Make sure the finished measurement is large enough to go around the fullest section of the client's stomach.
Seat:
- Please note that the seat measurement is automatically set by the maker, and depends on the waist measurement you input.
- You should be cautious with customers with big drops between waist and seat in order to make sure the garment doesn't come in too tight on the seat.
Front length:
- For single breasted waistcoats (pointed bottom):
- Put the measuring tape on the shoulder seam, where it attaches to the collar.
- Measure to the top of the trousers' front waistband.
- Depending on the customer's shape, add from 2.5" to 3.5" to this measurement (or more if needed) to account for the points.
- For men of average height, this measurement will usually be between 24.5" and 26.5". You may need to go longer for clients with a prominent belly.
- For double breasted waistcoats (straight bottom):
- Put the measuring tape on the shoulder seam, where it attaches to the collar.
- Measure to the top of the trousers' front waistband.
- Depending on the customer's shape, add from 1,5" to 2,5" to this measurement (or more if needed). It should be long enough to fully cover the waistband.
- Put the measuring tape on the shoulder seam, where it attaches to the collar.
Back length:
- You will measure the back length identically whether it is a single or a double breasted waistcoat.
- Put the measuring tape on the collar seam (on the back, where the collar attaches to the shoulders).
- Measure to the top of the trousers' back waistband.
- Depending on the customer's shape, add from 1.5" to 2.5" to this measurement. It should be long enough to cover the bottom of the trousers' belt loops.
NB:
- For single breasted waistcoats, try to aim for a 3" to 4" difference between the front and back lengths.
- For double breasted waistcoats, try to aim for a 1" to 2" difference between the front and back lengths.
First button position:
- Put the measuring tape on the shoulder seam, where it attaches to the collar.
- Measure to where you want the waistcoat to start fastening, depending on the style (single or double breasted) and the number of buttons you choose.
- On a single breasted waistcoat, the first button position will often sit 4" to 5" higher than the jacket's. The fewer buttons the waistcoat has, the lower the first button should sit.
NB: for double breasted waistcoats:
- Measure the first button position to the centre of the waist (NOT to where the actual buttons will be placed).
- The maker will know where to place the buttons based on the stance measurement you provide.
- With 6 buttons (3 to fasten), the first button position will often be similar to that of the jacket, or positioned slightly higher.
NB: Please note that all the measurement sections that are grey (not black) are NOT mandatory.