If you use the "Bespoke" section when it comes to measuring jeans (meaning you don't use try-ons), here is how you should proceed:
- Select the cut your customer desires. Basically, the cut accounts for the allowance given to the seat, the thighs and the knee of the jeans.
- In order to respect your customers' proportions, we suggest that you always keep in mind the overall look of the garments you create when inputting measurements.
As a matter of fact, you have to measure a pair of jeans almost in the same way as if it were trousers.
"Left/right length" (jeans length):
- Put the measuring tape on the top of the side waistband.
- Align the tape with the outseam.
- Measure to where the customer wants the jeans to end.
- NB: jeans are worn longer than trousers. Most customers will expect their jeans to have a full break on their shoes. Plus, denim doesn't drape the way wool does.
- NB: add 0.5" - 1" to the trousers' length (or more for rolled-up hems).
"Seat":
- Put the measuring tape on the most prominent part of the seat.
- Make sure the tape is leveled.
- Input the measurement you read.
- The allowance will be added automatically depending on the cut you select.
- NB: you should go tighter than you would with trousers. Subtract at least 0.5" to the trousers' thigh measurement.
"Waist":
- Put the measuring tape where the customer is planning on wearing his jeans.
- Input the measurement you read.
- NB: because the waistband isn't as structured on jeans as it is on trousers, and because it will tend to slightly loosen over time, the waist should be tighter on jeans; subtract at least 0.5" to the trousers' waist measurement.
"Front/back rise/u-rise":
- Put the measuring tape between the client's legs, from the top of the front waistband to the top of the back waistband.
- Verify there is neither a loose nor a tightening on the measuring tape.
- NB: The usual ratio for someone with a regular waist height will be 40/60. For example, 25" u-rise = 10" front rise / 15" back rise. For clients with a low waist height, the front rise will be between 36% and 40% of the total u-rise. For clients with a high waist height, the front rise can be slightly above 40% of the total u-rise.
"Thighs":
- Put the measuring tape on the fullest part of the thigh.
- Make sure the tape is levelled.
- Input the measurement you read.
- The allowance will be added automatically depending on the cut you select.
- NB: go tighter than you would with trousers. The allowance you should give will vary based on the customer's fit preference, as well as the fabric composition. Subtract at least 1" from the trousers' thigh measurement.
"Knee":
- Put the measuring tape on the calf.
- Input the skin calf measurement +1.5" as the knee.
- NB: go tighter than you would with trousers. However, use your tape measure to make sure the finished knee measurements is large enough to go around the lower portion of the customer's thigh, just above the knee.
"Bottom" (bottom opening):
- Modern jeans will often have an opening between 12" and 14".
- Go wider for a more traditional look, or with heavier customers.
NB: Please note that all the measurement sections that are grey (not black) are NOT mandatory.