When measuring a shirt, you may wonder what to do with the pattern change options that are available. Here is a quick overview of what these options offer. 



"Add a hidden snap button on the chest":

  • Usually, this option is used with women's shirts in order to prevent the placket from gapping  too much over the chest. 
  • The snap button is placed between the 3rd and 4th buttons (counting the collar button), on the inner side of the front placket, so it is not visible.
  • You can also use this option with men's shirts, especially for customers who ask for a trimmed fit.


"Placket button count":

  • This section allows you to change the number of buttons the maker will put on the front placket (including the collar button).
  • Considering the increased front length of their shirts, customers with a prominent belly will benefit from a placket with more buttons. The same goes for taller customers.


"Forearm adjustment":

  • This option is meant for customers who have bigger forearms than the average; you can increase this part of the shirt without touching the bicep measurement.
  • It is also useful when clients ask for tapered garments but you want to avoid tightening in the elbow and the forearm.
  • The default setting recommended by MTM.Design is "+2cm".


"Shift to stomach":

  • You will benefit from this option when dealing with customers with a prominent belly.
  • This will allow you to move a certain amount of fabric from the back to the front of the shirt without changing the overall waist measurement.


"Armhole":

  • Lowering the armhole is for customers who ask for very slim garments (especially trimmed chest and biceps). This option allows you to make the shirt tapered while avoiding the uncomfortable tightening that may occur in the armpit.
  • Raising the armhole allows you to improve the general look and comfort of the shirt when you are asked for loose cuts. As the sleeves attach higher to the chest, the fabric will be pulled less when the customer extends the arms forward.


"Front Chest Width":

  • Thanks to this option, you will be able to account for the prominence of your customers' chest.
  • It allows you to add or remove a certain amount of fabric only to the front part of the chest.
  • Note that using this option will increase or decrease the overall chest measurement.


"Lower or Raise the Collar":

  • Lowering the front of the collar can help with clients that have a forward neck, or a prominent Adam's apple; or anytime you notice an abnormal gap or rippling between the collar button and the first placket button, when both are fastened.
  • Lowering the back of the collar is useful for clients experiencing a "neck roll" on their shirt yoke.
  • Raising the back of the collar can be helpful for clients with a hump back, when the collar sits too far from the back of their neck.